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Single mother Manuela (Cecilia Roth) takes her seventeen-year-old son, Esteban, to see a stage performance of 'A Streetcar Named Desire' as a birthday treat. Tragically, Esteban is killed when he chases after a taxi carrying his favourite actress, Huma Rojo (Marisa Paredes). Consumed with guilt, Manuela decides to go in search of Esteban's father, whose identity she never revealed to her son. She finds out that he has had a sex change and is now called Lola the Pioneer, and along the way meets various characters, including transvestite La Agrado (Antonia San Juan) and AIDS-infected nun Sister Rosa (Penelope Cruz), who help her with a painful journey of self-discovery.